Few brands invest as much into the vertiginous, cinematic spectacle of campaigns as KENZO. In recent seasons, the Parisian house has seen collaborations with Gregg Araki for AW15 (of Doom Generation and Mysterious Skin) and Sean Baker for SS16 (shot on iPhone like his feature film Tangerine).

To expound upon the Japanese-centric collection of pre-fall 2016, which features hoodies bearing the KENZO logo translated into katakana, bomber jackets and kimono silhouettes, KENZO's creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon collaborated with directorial duo Partel Oliva.

Lim and Humberto, also co-founders of fashion retailer Opening Ceremony, were appointed to co-creative directors of the LVMH-owned label five years ago, and have since animated the brand with their playful designs and emphasis on storytelling through clothes.

The film "Sun to Sun" follows the Japanese folklore tale of Momotarō (transformed for KENZO’s retelling to female Momoko), a demon-slaying hero born from a giant peach to a childless couple. Talking to Because, KENZO's team describe the characterisation of Momoko as a mix of archetypes borrowed from Japanese fiction and subcultures: “a sukeban (delinquent girl), a tsundere (ice queen hiding a fiery core), a bosozoku biker, but also part of a group of girlfriends, diffracted among all the girls of the film. Her identity is largely performative. KENZO's audience is so diverse, we thought of a similarly multiple figure. A girl that is many girls.” Momoko's gang of Harajuku delinquents were cast with the help of Japanese street-style bible Fruits.

More than ever, the pressure of developing a world to frame the clothes is immense for designers. In our buyer’s market, every brand needs a story, a soul, a certain level of character development to distinguish itself from its competitor. KENZO's team describe the brand as a nexus of experiences. "Things happen at the crossroads. Of art and commerce, stories and data, the individual and the collective. By turning the collections into fictional worlds, we're hoping to create more intersections, hybrid places where chance encounters with the brand can happen."

With the help of Partel Oliva, animator Sanghom Kim, and music by legendary collective Geinoh Yamashirogumi, "Sun to Sun" is expansive, nightmarish, vividly coloured, dazedly paced. If only it were longer – but perhaps the sequel is found in the stories created by the consumer as she wears the clothes.

By Kinza Shenn