In 1996 Miuccia Prada showed a spring collection titled "Pretty/Ugly", a name that could arguably be applied to nearly every collection the designer has shown since. Miuccia clearly delights in asking her audience to question taste. This SS16 was another exercise in this. The gold lips, tiny clipped fringes and giant globe earrings coupled with a conservative, boxy skirt suit – genius? Absolutely. 


A giant thunderclap announced the start of the Gucci show, but Alessandro Michele already had his audience's rapt attention. He'd made sure this was the most anticipated collection in Milan last February with his debut for the house. And interestingly, rather than present something totally new, he dug deeper into the madcap '70s references he'd already shown. What arrived on the runway this time was an even more eccentric, mishmash of ideas than the last. It takes a confident, skilled designer to make yesteryear clothes look like an exciting proposition for tomorrow.


"The biggest, best thing Donatella Versace has ever marched down a catwalk," proclaimed Tim Blanks on BoF, a sentiment largely shared by the rest of the industry. And march the models did, a united female army dressed in military inspired clothes – camouflage animal prints, sculpted army jackets cinched with fluro belts, tiny bandeaus strapped around the chest. 


Each season Alessandra Facchinetti seems to find new ways to turn a brand, famous for a dimple-soled driving shoe, into the place for rich, accomplished ready-to-wear too. This time, she showed a more realistic collection that was less delicate and sleek than previous offerings. Look out for those practical, embellished flat loafers when SS16 hits stores. 


Alessandro Dell'Acqua's made his name as a designer who can catch on to a certain mood, distill it and deliver exactly what women will want to wear next season. Sounds simple, but it's not easily done. For SS16, he did it again. His work is grounded in a type of feminine grunge and this collection, with its ruffled sheer dresses and delicate lace gowns paired with white cotton t-shirts, was true to fine form.


Rosanna Daolio first began her label in 2001, specialising in simple, elegant pieces with an emphasis on luxury materials. In 2011 the Chinese group RedStone Haute Couture brought a majority stake and opened boutiques all over China. Well known in the Far East, this season is sure to garner the attention of a new European customer – those who like their fashion with a minimalistic bent. We loved the proportions and that pale yellow, backless number.