Céline’s spring/summer 2017 collection screamed “power woman”. Phoebe Philo’s busy urban life was reflected – quite literally –  in a glass installation by the American artist Dan Graham that lined the runway. The clothes harboured a similar sentiment: harsh and angular in proportions but fluid in fabric with a fit that emphasised their comfort and practicality. Although some sorbet shades crept into a few looks, Philo kept a bold colour palette this season with flashes of the Yves Klein blue, bright reds and harsh whites in keeping with the 1980s genre. Here are five strong characters Because could see rocking Céline’s newest collection.


Sonny Crockett from Miami Vice

Céline took 1980s redux to another level with the shoulder pads on this white trouser suit. The oversized and boxy shape of the blazer casts our minds back to a serious sartorial icon of the decade: Don Johnson as detective Sonny Crockett in Miami Vice. Forget the working woman, Philo will have her Céline girl on the mean streets of Miami, gun pointed and ready to fight some crime.

Bono and Paris Hilton as themselves

If you thought tinted sunglasses were best left to U2’s Bono and heiress it-girl Paris Hilton, think again! Ditching the early-noughties visor and the diamantés, Philo brought blue back in a big way. Angular and architectural, just like Dan Graham’s installation, these icy blue shades kept it sharp, futuristic but never dated. In the words of Paris Hilton: that’s hot!

Wilson from Castaway

Céline’s mesh-overlay maxi is painted with Yves Klein’s famous shade of blue. These brush strokes represent the figure of a woman but we see a striking resemblance to Tom Hank’s football companion Wilson in Castaway. This piece is so much more than a dress, it’s a friend for life.


Madonna made the Jean Paul Gaultier conical corset famous on her Blonde Ambition tour back in 1990. But instead of underwear as outerwear, Philo shows us underwear over outwear, swapping the sexed-up satin and suspenders for a wispy, spider-web crochet layered over a white, raw-hemmed, cotton dress.

Princess Leia from Star Wars

This dress reminds us of yet another strong female from the past: Carrie Fisher as Princess Leia from the original Star Wars trilogy. We can see the space warrior rocking this voluminous chiffon number, with layered blouson sleeves billowing and rope-belt swinging as she swipes at Darth Vader with her lightsaber.



Text by Abigail Southan