There was a prevailing sportswear influence that echoed throughout the collections from the last day of LFW this season.

 

Rejina Pyo always presents feminine, highly wearable clothes for working women, full of soft tailoring and thoughtful details. This season, I felt a slightly military, uniform influence in her clothes, with beautiful button details and shoes. Those pointy, low-heeled flats with a deep “V” on the front are practical for everyday but interesting to look at too. The overstitching detail also added a dynamic, sporty element to the clothes.

 

Christopher Raeburn's shows are all about great casual outerwear. But this season, he focused special attention on knitwear – a relatively new venture for him. In collaboration with Woolmark, he used British fabrics, recycling and upcycling them into modern and sleek looks. There were two standout military jackets that hung on the wall inside his presentation space.

 

Marques'Almeida is known for their fringed denim but their autumn collection showed they are trying new techniques and themes. It was very sporty, with zip-up funnel collars, oversized drawstring hoodies and basketball net-like textiles across several looks. They showed great puffer jackets that were beautifully constructed – a difficult thing to do with that kind of material.

There were some particular standouts for me throughout the course of LFW.

 

I loved Christopher Kane’s show. It felt very powerful, with amazing details like the feathers on the boots. You could tell each piece was lovingly made and unlike previous collections, I feel anyone can find something they like in this collection. The styling was fantastic too, especially the hair and accessories – it tied the whole collection in. Each piece was very different but with the styling, the whole thing felt like one, strong statement from Kane.

 

The Joseph show was a pleasant surprise – in that I felt the label really pushed its boundaries. The luxurious, minimal knitwear was ever present, though many looks displayed new and intriguing plays on colour, textile and proportion. The hair was genius – a fuzzy, crimped style that made everything soft and light, even amidst the bulk of the heavy-knit pieces.

 

Pringle’s show felt tougher (in a great way), almost masculine even, compared to previous shows. It’s signature knitwear were nicely combined with more structural pieces. Faustine Steinmetz is unbelievably talented – her handling of textiles is very interesting and different to anyone else. Her method of designing smaller, more specialised collections, I think, is the way to go in the future. Another emerging designer I like is Danielle Romeril. Some of her inspiration was 16th century costume, the kids of Studio Paradiso in Amsterdam during the 1980s and football scarves. She managed to create a very modern, sportswear-influenced collection with her own stamp.