Best set: Coach went all out for their very first catwalk. Stuart Vevers’ nature-inspired was held at New York’s High Line and the collection went down a mirrored runway, with plants spilling out into the aisles.




The Fashion spat: Just before the Givenchy show, Kanye West made the shock announcement that he would be presenting his second Yeezy collection on Wednesday 16 September. This unscheduled event inevitably caused some trouble for designers who were set to show at the same time. Naeem Khan went ahead as planned (and the crowd didn’t seem to have diminished), but Anne Bowen was forced to change her showing to the next day. She was planning to launch her new streetwear collection Nomad VII by Anne Bowen, and was outraged by the clash. She told WWD: “Kanye knows he is a media sensation and it is just not ethical to do this. It’s like we are David and he is Goliath.” So what about Kanye’s show then? It wasn’t particularly different to his first outing – the same choreographed, military style of presentation and a similar array of hoodies and parkas. Further adding to the drama, Kanye supposedly made all his models sign non-disclosure agreements, meaning that he could fine them an outrageous $10m if they gossiped about him and Kim Kardashian.


Best collaboration: The Givenchy show was always going to be one of the biggest of NYFW: it was the first year the house was showing out of Paris, coupled with Riccardo Tisci's 10-year anniversary as designer and the significant date of 11 September. Held on Pier 26 with views over the water to Freedom Tower, the entire set was made from recycled materials and the theme of the show was love. Perhaps the best thing about the show was Tisci’s collaboration with performance artist Marina Abramovic, to create an elaborate piece with seven performers.




Most hyped debut: The Public School boys for DKNY. The duo didn't take too many risks with their debut, instead staying true to both their New York roots and Donna Karan’s vision for the brand. They gave a sporty feel to the Seven Easy Pieces that Karan pioneered, so all eyes will be on them as they relax into the brand.




Craziest hair: Thom Browne took us back to school with his SS16 collection, but the hairstyles of the models were definitely not for your average schoolgirl. Poking through straw boaters, each model sported two vertical plaits on the top of their heads. The show itself was a performance, with models walking around the room at an extremely slow pace. The makeup and the schoolgirl theme were inspired by Japanese culture, making for an interesting performance.




Best throwback: Dianne Von Furstenberg presented a seventies-inspired collection this season. Think big Farrah Fawcett curls, bright eyeshadow and multi-coloured retro dresses. Teamed with a roll call of the biggest models of the moment (Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Jourdan Dunn et al.), this show did not lack a party spirit.




Most interesting models: You never know what to expect from Eckhaus Latta, who last season had a runway strewn with lettuce. For SS16 they stayed away from vegetables and instead sent some particularly interesting models down the runway. These included Dev Hynes (musician, songwriter, comic-book artist, dancer), Alexandra Marzella (artist), Grace Dunham (actress and poet, sister to Lena) and Bjarne Melgaard (artist). Eckhaus Latta’s muses are all ingrained in the New York artistic society, something they wanted to pay homage to in their show.




Most tech-savvy show: Misha Nonoo decided to sidestep the hassle of a physical show this season, instead debuting her new collection on Instagram. The presentation came in the form of a carefully curated Instagram show (see @mishanonoo_show), accompanied by pictures of Nonoo’s famous friends from Lena Dunham to Eva Chen modelling looks on her own Instagram account (@mishanonoo).




Most awkward moment: The fashion industry is no stranger to plagiarism rows between designers. This NYFW Mansur Gavriel unveiled its first footwear line, but has been accused of copyright infringement by Maryam Nassir Zadem. Zadem claims that the shoes are “way to close to my own designs to be an accident.” Indeed, the block heels, material, and colour palates are strikingly similar. The row caused model Mari Guidicelli to pull out of Mansur Gavriel’s presentation out of loyalty to Zadem. Zadem Instagrammed this screenshot of the WWD article, and is reportedly looking into legal action.

Text by Prudence Wade